| 139 | |  Name: | PilgrimPhil
(philrobinson.robson@btconnect.com)
| | Date: | 26/08/2010 18:00:54 | | Subject: | Sun Ti carpets | | | Our removable carpets have started to "stick" to the vinyl flooring, causing the foam backing to start to peel away when being removed.
Is this a common occurrence or are we just unlucky?
We can see, that in time, we will ahve to have replacement carpets made up!
Phil Robinson %26 Kim Chapman [Lincoln bound in Sept!]
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| 137 | |  Name: | Paul Humphreys
(PaulD.Humphreys@Virgin.Net)
| | Date: | 18/08/2010 10:45:00 | | Subject: | Tyre Pressures | | | Hi All ...... I've been reading various articles on 'tyre pressure', and seen that Steve Brocks article is very comprehensive and informative, in the article he mentions different 'chassis', I have a 600LF SUN Ti and don't know what chassis is fitted, can somebody please tell me ?, as I'm normally very fussy on tyre pressures (Michelin currently fitted), I thought I would contact 'Michelin' direct and see what their recommendation would be, they returned 'Front: 62 psi or 4.4 bar Back: 80 psi or 5.6 bar', now I'm confused, somebody please help
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| 136 | |  Name: | Scott Montgomery
(scott@theloch.co.uk)
| | Date: | 12/08/2010 23:42:30 | | Subject: | Waste water tank heating | | | Hi, I have just bought a new sport ti 650mg in Ireland and brought it back here. I read that some vans have the ability to heat the waste water tank using the truma heating. I have found a heating duct under the sink that has some sort of 'valve' on it and seems to go under the floor. It has a cord attached to the 'valve' that seems to pull something inside the duct. Is this the control for the waste water heater? If so, how do I use it? Any help appreciated. | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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| 135 | |  Name: | Kevin Hamblin
(hamblins@360.com)
| | Date: | 06/08/2010 17:14:40 | | Subject: | Uprating or downrating maximum vehicle weight | | | I have put a link to SvTech on the 'Useful Links' section of the website. I have used them to uprate my Sun Ti from 3,500kg to 3,900kg GVW. it is basically a paper excercise and although they do not specifically mention Renault on their website they were able to issue the paperwork for my Sun Ti on a Renault Master. The extra 400kg lets me take everything I need on the long contenintal trips.
The cost for me was just over two hundred pounds but the change from PLG to PHVG tax saves me twenty pounds a year currently. This is worth considering if you are running close to the limit. Naturally none of us would go over it! Might have to downrate again when I am 70 though.
Regards Kevin Hamblin | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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| 133 | |  Name: | ValProvoost
(provoostv@zeelandnet.nl)
| | Date: | 28/07/2010 09:46:10 | | Subject: | 708G | | | Here's the latest in the saga. A couple of weeks ago I spoke with a friend in UK about the flat bettery syndrome. As he used to be an electrician and also has a camper he said that the problem would certainly not be down to one cause. As to the flat betteries he said that there was/should be a relay or relays with each battery feed so that the alternator could charge both. The relay/s should then switch to prevent the current flowing back or between the two. That made sense to me. As he know that we had (1) a water leak under the washroom from a faulty tap and (2) the engiine battery was now leaking and had been replaced he felt it highly likely that the relay/s had been damages and were stuck open. The wretched thing is off today to an auto electrician who went a bit green when he saw my fault list, all 9 bullet points of it. The result will be interesting and I will let you know the outcome | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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| 132 | |  Name: | Richard Goodwin
(richard.goodwin@zen.co.uk)
| | Date: | 22/07/2010 22:46:56 | | Subject: | Van battery flat | | | After 18 years in a VW, we took the plunge in April and bought an 06 plate Knaus Sun Ti 650MF, as it ticked every box we could think of and looked great into the bargain.
This is a rather more serious and complex bit of kit than the old Vee-Dub and I still don't feel I fully understand it. Particularly the electrics.
The last time we used it was just under 3 weeks ago. Since then it has been sat on the drive in the following state:
1) NOT on hook-up 2) All switches on the control panel OFF 3) Big red breaker switch next to the Calira Charger OFF 4) Alarm (Thatcham Cat 1) ON 5) Immobiliser ON 6) Nothing silly left on (interior lights, radio etc)
I just went to start it, and the VAN battery is completely dead. The leisure battery is fine.
Is there anything I am doing wrong? Does, for example, the alarm draw that much current that I need to leave the thing on hook-up continuously?
This is the third time it has done this since we bought it. I've had the battery tested with a dwell meter, and it's fine. There is something drawing current, but I can't see what. If the habitation side is all shut down and isolated, you're dealing with the cab and running gear of the base Renault Master. Surely you could leave a Renault Master locked with the alarm on for 3 weeks without the battery going flat?
I could leave the VW on the drive for 6 months, and it'd be fine when I went to start it.
Any ideas?
Richard | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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| 131 | |  Name: | neville
(neville@tornax.co.uk)
| | Date: | 13/07/2010 19:07:55 | | Subject: | Knaus S Liner 700LG | | | Hello,
Have had various coachbuilt and am contemplating a 700LG and would like to know of experiences good or bad. Likely use is for long term camping 2 - 3 months or more I like the garage and permanent fixed bed layout is good for us just wanted some realworld feedback on the marque appreciate any comments.
Regards Neville
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| 130 | |  Name: | tony Woodhouse
(tony@advanced-comms.co.uk)
| | Date: | 11/07/2010 11:43:56 | | Subject: | Modification for switching lights on a Sunliner for driving abroad. | | | I have justy finished the mod for making it easy to switch the lights on a sunliner from RHD to LHD. It also makes the fittings on the light units more secure since at present the are held in by self drill self tap screws direct to the fibregalss shell (very poor on a £60K vehicle)
Basically the lights are ready to be shifted from RHD to LHD with just the loosening of a couple of screws and moving the lamp housing. However after doing this a couple of times the screw fixings have loosened and I have lost a couple so decided to do something about it. It used to take about half an hour to do in total but I can do it in 5 minutes now start to finish. Is it worth me publishing here and is there anywhere in particular I should put the method? | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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